Practical experience from van conversions

When I was building my first camper van, I mainly focused on things that are visible at first glance. The bed, kitchen, electricity, windows, or insulation. I considered soundproofing more of an extra at the time. I thought that if the van was insulated, it would naturally be quieter.

Today, I know I was wrong.

After several conversions – from Volkswagen T4 to T5 and then to Mercedes Sprinter – I would do soundproofing as one of the first things. I'm not just talking about the car being quieter. The overall driving experience changes. The van stops feeling like an empty tin box that resonates with every bump. After several hours behind the wheel, you'll notice the difference much more than you'd expect.

That's why I use Comfortmat anti-vibration materials in my builds today.

What does Comfortmat actually do?

This is one of the most common questions.

Many people think that Comfortmat primarily serves as thermal insulation. In reality, its purpose is completely different.

Comfortmat is an anti-vibration material that strengthens the body panel, reduces its resonance, and helps dampen vibrations occurring during driving. This also reduces the noise transferred into the interior through the body.

A simple experiment is enough. Tap on the bare metal of the van. Then stick a piece of Comfortmat and try again. The sound will be completely different. The metal will stop ringing and feel much sturdier. That's how you know the material is doing its job.

Comfortmat is then followed by thermal insulation, such as ArmaFlex or K-FLEX. This helps maintain a comfortable temperature inside the van, but it doesn't eliminate vibrations on its own. That's why, in my opinion, both materials make the most sense in combination.

Which Comfortmat to choose?

Comfortmat offers several different materials, and at first glance, it might not be easy to know which one is right for your van.

At Pimp Your Van, I didn't want to offer dozens of similar products just to make the catalog as large as possible. Instead, I chose materials that truly have their place in building a camper van.

If I had to recommend one universal option for most camper vans, it would be Comfortmat Cobra. It offers an excellent balance between weight and efficiency and works great on doors, side panels, and the roof.

The most vibrations occur on the floor and wheel arches during driving, so stronger materials like Spider or Atom make more sense there. However, I wouldn't underestimate the doors, side panels, or roof either. Vibrations are not transmitted in just one place but spread throughout the entire body. The better the other parts of the van are treated, the quieter the entire car feels.

If you're unsure which material to choose, feel free to write to me. I'd rather advise on the correct option for your specific van than have you buy something that won't be ideal for your conversion.

Correct installation is more crucial than the material itself

During the time I spent building vans, I learned one thing. It's not enough to buy quality material. How you apply it is equally important.

The absolute basic requirement is perfectly clean and degreased metal. I personally use perchloroethylene, with which I have very good experience. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) also works great. On the other hand, I wouldn't use technical gasoline. It can leave a greasy film that will impair the adhesion of the butyl layer.

Don't underestimate the pressure roller

If I had to highlight one thing that really matters, it's the pressure roller.

When I applied Comfortmat for the first time, I felt that the thicker the layer remained after application, the better it would dampen vibrations. I didn't want to compress the material too much because I thought I might lose its effectiveness.

Eventually, I discussed it directly with the Comfortmat dealer, and he explained that it was exactly the opposite.

The butyl layer must be as well connected to the metal as possible. Therefore, it's necessary to thoroughly roll the material with a pressure roller until the indentations in the aluminum foil almost disappear. Only then does the butyl have maximum contact with the metal and can effectively dampen vibrations.

Since then, I've been rolling every piece this way. It takes a few extra minutes, but I think it's one of the most important things during the entire installation. If you're already investing time and money into quality material, it would be a shame to lose its effectiveness just because of poor application.

I use an ordinary carpet knife for cutting. I just recommend having plenty of spare blades on hand. Butyl is quite tough, and the blade gets dull surprisingly quickly.

People often ask if a heat gun is necessary.

I don't use it.

If the material is cold, I leave it in the sun or a warm room for a while. That's usually enough, and the work is much more pleasant.

Does the entire van need to be covered?

With the first van, I felt I had to cover every single centimeter of sheet metal.

Today, I do things a little differently.

In some places, I leave small gaps between individual pieces, mainly because of the weight of the entire conversion. Nevertheless, a simple rule applies – the closer the individual pieces are to each other, the better they can dampen vibrations. It's important to find a reasonable compromise between maximum efficiency and unnecessary extra kilograms.

What surprised me the most

Perhaps it will surprise you, but I didn't notice the first difference while driving.

I noticed it when closing the doors.

Suddenly, that typical metallic sound disappeared, and the doors felt much sturdier. It's a small detail, but it's precisely where you realize that something has changed.

The first longer trip only confirmed my impressions. The van was quieter, resonated less, and driving was more pleasant. Don't expect to turn a camper van into a luxury limousine. That's not how it works, of course. But you'll notice the difference surprisingly quickly, especially on longer trips.

A mistake I wouldn't make today

On the first conversion, I wanted to save a little on soundproofing.

I wouldn't do that today.

Once I properly soundproofed another van later, I understood that this is precisely the kind of work that is really difficult to return to after the entire conversion is finished. Similarly, today I wouldn't underestimate degreasing, I would never apply over rust, and I would definitely not omit the pressure roller. These are small details that have a greater impact on the final effect than most people realize.

Is Comfortmat worth it?

For me, absolutely yes.

If I were building another camper van from scratch today, I would use Comfortmat again.

Not because I sell it.

But because I have experienced the difference in my own vehicles and I know what to expect from it.

If you're planning your own conversion and are unsure about the choice, feel free to contact me. I'll be happy to advise. I believe that a well-soundproofed van is one of those things you'll appreciate on every subsequent trip.